Tài liệu Sewing needle - sewing machine needle

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NEEDLE © Student Handouts, By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune Contents 1. The basic functions of a needle 2. Needle Parts: Physical characteristics 3. Needle Identification 4. Round Point Needles 5. Needle Size / Thickness 6. Comparison of Equivalent Needle Sizes 7. Common Problems and Solutions 8. Needle Checklist 9. Checking a Needle that is already in a Machine SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE Functions of the needle • To produce hole in the material • To carry the needle thread through the material and there form a loop • To pass the needle thread through the loop SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PARTS PARTS OF THE NEEDLE • • • • • • • • • BUTT SHANK SHOULDER LONG GROOVE SHORT GROOVE EYE NEEDLE POINT SCARF BLADE SEWING NEEDLE PARTS BUTT • The end of the needle • The butt determine the length of the needle when it is fully inserted into the needle bar of the sewing machine. SHANK • upper part of the needle • may be cylindrical or have a flat side. • larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for reason of strength SHOULDER • Intermediate between shank and the blade • It is also called shaft SEWING NEEDLE PARTS BLADE • Below the shoulder of the blade to the eye of the needle • Longest part of the needle. • Accommodates the groove, the eye and the scarf. • The blade reduces the fabric resistance as the needle point and its eye passes through the fabric • Greatest amount of the friction . SEWING NEEDLE PARTS LONG GROVE • Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to "cradle" thread for smooth stitches. • Provides a protective channel in which the thread is drawn through. • A Correctly shaped long groove of a depth matched to the thread diameter, offers considerable protection to the thread. SHORT GROOVE • It extends a little above and below the eye • Its function is to assist in the formation of the loop in the needle thread. SEWING NEEDLE PARTS SCARF • Concave section above the eye of the needle • Indentation at back of needle. • A long scarf helps eliminate skipped stitches by allowing bobbin hook to loop thread more easily. SEWING NEEDLE PARTS EYE • • • • Hole in end of needle through which thread passes. The hole through which the thread pass Eye is located below the scarf Needle size and type determine size and shape of eye. Point: minimizes the damage of the fabric SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO SMALL FOR THE THREAD • Thread will not pass freely through the eye • Thread will not fit properly into the long groove. • Thread will suffer from excessive abrasion. • Can lead to costly thread breakages in production. IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO LARGE FOR THE THREAD • There will be poor control of the loop formation which may cause slip stitches. • It will create holes in the fabric which are too big for the stitches and give an unattractive seam appearance. • Tends to give rise to damaged fabric along the stitch line, and in closely woven fabrics, pucker along the seam line due to fabric distortion. NEEDLE POINTS Most machine needles will look similar but they will differ in their tips: Set/Spear point - These are used for most woven fabrics. Ball point - These have a rounded tip and are used for knitted fabrics. The rounded end allows the needle to separate the yarns without cutting them, which reduces the chance of the fabric laddering. Wedge point - These are designed to cut a hole as they penetrate the fabric. They are used for machining leather and plastic materials. SPEAR NEEDLE POINT SLIM SET POINT SET POINT HEAVY SET POINT BALL NEEDLE POINT LIGHT BALL POINT MEDIUM BALL POINT HEAVY BALL POINT CLOTH POINT NEEDLE BALL POINT NEEDLE NEEDLE POINT EFFECT OF DIFFERENT NEEDLE POINTS NEEDLE POINT Slim Set Point also referred to as acute round point (SPI) * This point is used for dense woven fabrics as it causes less damage, helps set a straighter stitch and minimizes seam pucker. * Commonly used for microfibre and densely woven fabrics, coated materials, topstitching of collars and cuffs in shirts. NEEDLE POINT Set Cloth Point also referred to as normal round point (R) This point is used for normal fabrics with standard seams as it pushes the yarn to the side. NEEDLE POINT Light Ball Point (SES) This point is used for sewing lightweight knitted fabric. It is sometimes used for fine denim and light, densely woven material to avoid damaging the material. NEEDLE POINT Medium Ball Point (SUK) This point is used for sewing medium weight knitted fabric. It is also used for medium to coarse denims, particularly sand-washed and stonewashed grades
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