P##f#SM #nING TW lk1%
FQR
No R
TeytiIe fibres;Yarn and b'zrn m anufacturing;
W eaving technology;Fabricstructure and design;SpeciaIw oven fabric production;
W eftand w arp knitting technology;Knitted fabric design;Specialknitfabric production;
Sw eaterknitting;
Dyeing,printing and finishing.
Engr.ShahAlimuzzaman BelalG ext.ATI.(U.K.)
Assistant Professor
College ofTextile Engineering and Technology
Dhaka,Bangladesh
Published by BM N3foundation
Dhaka,Bangladesh.
TABLE O FCONTENTS
Contents
Introduction to textiles
Flow chartoftextile processing
Textile fibres
Yarn and
yarn m anufaeturing
Propertiesoftextile fibres
Prim ary propertiesoftextilefibres
Secondary propertiesoftextilefibres
Classification oftextile fibres
Fibre identification
Burning test
Lightmicroscopytest
Chemicalsolubility test
Typesoffibres
Classification ofyarn
Typesofcottonyarn
Blowroom section
ProcessIayoutoftheyarn m anufacturing system
w ith a modern blowroom Iine
Carding section
Doubling and draw ing
Com bing section
SimplexorRovingfram e
Cotton spinningsystem
Spinning machine
Autoconer
Yarn conditioningand packing
Yarn num bering system
Definition
Typesofyarn count
Calculationsconcerning count
Form ulaeforcountconversion
Countcalculation and denotion forpI
y yarn
Length calculation ofacone ofsew ing thread
Fanc# Yarns
Fancyyarn
Coloureffects
Structure effects
Lustre effects
Page no.
002
003
004
004
004
006
011
O12
012
014
018
021
O21
021
024
025
028
030
030
032
034
035
36
039
040
041
041
041
044
046
O47
050
051
051
051
051
052
Fabric and
Fabric m anufacturing
W oven fabrics and
W eaving technology
Typesoffabric
Fabricclassifitationataglanee
W oven fabries
Proeessflow to manufaduringwoven fabric
W eavingpreparation
W inding
W indingprocess
Tensiondevice
Typesofpackages
Pirnwinding
W inding machine
Precisionwinding
Problem
W arp preparation
W arping
DirectorHighspeedwarping
IndirectorSectionwarping
W arping machine
SizingorSlashing
Sizing machine
Drawing-in andTying-in
Fundamentalsofweaving
W eaving principle
Basicw eavingm otions
W arp Iet-off
W arpshedding
W eftinsertionorpicking
Yarnaccumulatorsorfeeders
Beat-up
Take-up
Auxiliaryweavingmotions
Fabricwidth
W eavingmachine orLoom
Shuttleweavingmachines
Shuttlelessweaving machines
Projectileweavingmachine
Rapierweaving machine
Airjetweavingmachine
Water-jetweavingmachine
M ultiphaseweaving machine
Fabricsel
vages
GreyfabricinspectionIines
053
053
055
056
057
057
057
058
059
063
069
071
072
072
073
074
074
076
077
079
083
086
089
093
093
095
095
096
096
098
100
102
103
103
105
106
107
108
110
111
113
114
115
117
Fabric structure
and design
lntrodurtiontofabricstruetureanddesign
W oven fabricspecification
Fabricweightcalculation
Yarn consumption calculation
Partsofa complete desi
gn
Drafting
System orclassi
fication ofdrafting
Basicweavesofwovenfabric
Plain weave
M ain featuresofplainweave
Classification ofplain c10th
Derivativesofplainweave
Rib weave
M attweave
Ornam entation ofplain (10th
Twillw eave
Classification oftwillweave
Derivativesoftwillweave
Zig-zagtwillweave
Herringbonetwillweave
Diamond design
Diaperdesign
Brokentwillweave
Re-arranged twillweave
Stepped twillweave
Elongated twillweave
Com binedtwillweave
Shadedtwillweave
Advantagesand disadvantagesoftwill
Satin weave
Classificationofsatin weave
Construdion principle ofsatin weave
Derivativesofsatin weave
Crepeweaves
Corkscrew weaves
Shaded weaves
Fancy design orstructureoffabrits
Huckabackweaves
M ockIeno weaves
Honeycomb weave
Distorted thread e/ect
Cord weave
Spongeweave
118
119
121
121
123
125
129
131
134
135
135
136
137
138
141
144
146
147
153
154
159
162
165
167
168
173
175
179
183
186
187
188
189
194
195
201
202
205
205
209
211
217
220
227
Colourand weave effects
Sim ple colourand weave effects
Com pound colourand weave effects
Figuringw ith extra threads
Com pound fabrics
Tubularc10th
Double width c10th
M ulti-plyfabrics
Stitched double cloths
Classification ofdouble c10th
Selection ofsuitable stitching positions
Construction principle
Selfsti
tchdouble c10th
W added double c10th
Centre stitch double c10th
Fabric used in apparelsector
Fabric based on plain weave
Fabric based ontwillweave
Othercom mercialfabrics
Fabricconstruction orspecification
spetialfabrit produd ion
229
231
235
238
241
241
242
242
244
244
247
248
248
251
253
256
256
261
263
265
267
Braid fabrics
268
M anufacturing principle
269
End uses
270
M ulticom ponentfabrics
271
Bonded fabrics
27 1
Lam inated fabrics
272
Quilted fabrics
273
Leno orGauze fabrics
277
W eaving principle and end uses
278
Lappetand Sw ivelfabrics
280
Lappetw eaving principle
280
Featuresofsw ivelw eave
281
Denim fabrics
283
Featuresand raw m ateriaisofdenim fabric
283
W arp preparation
285
W oven pile fabrics
288
W eftpile fabrics
288
W arp pilefabrics
292
The w ire m ethod
292
The doubIe-cloth orface-to-face m ethod 295
The slacktension pile orterryw eave
305
Flocked fabrics
313
Tufling:Tufted carpet
315
Knitted fabricsand
Knitting technology
Introductionandhistoricalbackgroundofknitting
Generalterm srelated to knitting technology
M echanicalprinciplesofknittingtechnology
Basicelem entsofknitting
The need1es
The cam s
The sinkers
M ethodsofyarn feeding
M ethodsofform ingyarn into needle Ioops
Stitch form ation on bearded needles
Loop formation on Iatch needles
Knitting action ofcom pound needles
W eftknitting m achines
M ain featuresofa knitting m achine
Classification ofweftkni
tting m achines
Flatknitting m achine
Circularkni
tting m achine
Fabric m achine
Garment-length m achines
Single-jerseycircularknittingmachine
322
326
337
337
337
341
344
345
346
347
349
351
354
354
354
356
358
361
362
363
Rib circularknitting m achine
Interlock circularknitting m achine
Links-linksorPurlknitting m achine
Basicw eftknitted structures
The plain knitstructure orplain fabric
The rib structure orrib fabric
The purlknitstructure orpurlfabric
The interlockstructure orinterlock fabric
Com parison between basicstructures
369
377
380
383
383
385
389
392
394
Identificationofsingleand doublejersey
395
Basic Ioop orstitch types
The held loop
Thefloatstitch orIoop
Thetuck Ioop orstitch
The drop orpress-offstitch
Designsofw eftknitted fabrics
396
396
398
403
411
413
Ornamentationofsingle-jerseyfabric
Single-jerseyderivatives
Double-jerseyderivativesbasedon rib
413
414
421
Derivativesofinterlockstructure
427
W eftknittedjacquarddesign
Single-jerseyjacquard design
Double-jerseyjacquarddesign
437
437
441
t.,,;
yy
l
))
%)
lt
'
t
)
(
t
y
.
Sweaterknitting
Featuresofthesweaterknittingmachine
446
447
The manualsweaterknitting machine
Productionofdifferentfabricsonsweater
kni
tting machine
448
.
4s3
t
l
@
<41
'
t
è
7
'
Theset-up
453
)
Tubularfabric
Singlebed fabric
Ribfabrics
Needle-bed racking
454
455
456
459
Stitchorlooptransferinweftknitting
461
The welt
477
Garmentpanelseparation
480
Shaping during knitting
482
Shapeformation
483
Shaping orfashioningfrequenciescalculation
487
Linking operation
491
Knitted fabricfaults
494
Calculation relatedtoweftknitting
501
Knittingspeed and machinerpm
502
Speedfactororpedormance number
503
Production calculation
504
W eightperunitareaand coverfactor
5O9
Relationbeto yarn count& m achinegauge
511
Relationbetween yarn countand GSM
512
W arp knitting principle
514
lntroduction to warp knitted fabrics
514
The guides
515
The pattern mechanism
517
Chain finks
519
The warp beams
521
Lapping diagramsand chain notations
522
Basicstitchesin warp knitting
523
W arp knitting maehinery
531
Tricotwarp knitting machine
531
Raschelwarp kni
tting machine
538
Two fully threaded guide barstructuresorfabrics
546
Spetialknitfabricproduction
553
Knitted pile fabrics
553
Fleece knitfabric
553
High pile knitfabricsorsliverknitfabrics 555
Plush fabricsorknitted terry fabrics
557
The crochetwarp knittingm achine
559
The straightbarframe
563
.
è
.
j
@
'i
)
i
r
'
Netting ornetfabrics
Lace fabrics
Nonw oven fabrics
Raw m aterials
W eb form ation
W eb bonding
Finishing
Characteristics and uses ofnonw oven fabrics
Specialty nonw oven products
Textile dyeing,printing Preparatory processorpre-dyeing treatm ents
and finishing
Singeing
Desizing and Scouring
Bleaching
M ercerizing
Heatsetting
Elasticfabric
W ashing
Drying
Dyeing
Preparation and dyeing m achinery
Autoclaves
W inch dyeing m achine
Jiggers
Dyestuffs
Printing
Printing principle
Printing processes
Functionalfinishing
M echanicalfinishing treatm ents
Chem icalfinishing treatm ents
568
570
579
579
580
583
588
589
590
591
592
593
594
595
596
598
599
600
605
612
613
615
619
621
622
623
624
627
630
631
640
Acknow ledgem ents
Gratefulacknowledgements are made to m any of my friends, colleagues and dear students
who have relentlessly encouraged me to writethiskind ofa bookand read differentchapterof
thisbook,given encouragementand very helpfulcriticism .
Specially,Iwould Iike to show a huge appreciation to my beloved wife Sumona and m y Iittle
girlsHafsa,Sumaia and Eusha.W i
thout theirsupportand patience lwould never have been
abletofinish thiswork.
02
INTRODUC ION TO TEXTILES
The word ''textile'
'originally applied only to woven fabrics, now generally applied to fibres,
yarns,orfabrics or products m ade of fibres, yarns or fabrics.The term textile originates
from the Iatin verb texere - to weave - but, asthe Textile Institute'sTerm sand Defini
tions
Glossary explains, it is now /'a generalterm applied to any manufacture from fibres,
filam ents or yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of Iength to
thickness''
Textiles,especially fabric isthe fundam entalcom ponentofa readym ade garm ent, because
it is the basic raw m aterialof a garm ent. So it is im portant to know the m anufacturing
sequence offabric from fibre.The quality product isthe m ain goalat presenttim e, W ithout
knowledge ofTextile manufacturing i.e.fibre,yarn and fabrics it is im possible to m aintain
the qualityofagarment.Before elaborating on whole process ofgreyfabric m anufacturing
let us look on what is textile fibre, yarn and fabric and what are the processflow chart of
Textile M anufacturing can be described.
. Textile:
A term originally appbied only to w oven fabrics, but the term s textile and the plural
textiles are now also applied to fibres,filaments and yarns, naturaland m anufactured,
and m ostproductsforw hich these are a principalraw m ateriai.
* Textile Fibre:
Any substance, naturalor manufactured, with a high Iength to width ratio and w ith
suitable characteristicsforbeing processed into fabric;the smallestcom ponent, hairIike
in nature,thatcan be separated from a fabric.
@ Yarn:
An assem blage of fibres that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous
strand that can be m ade into a textile fabric. So a yarn is a strand of naturalor m an
m adefibresorfilamentsthathave been twisted orgrouped togetherforuse in w eaving,
knitting, or other m ethods of constructing textile fabrics. The type of yarn to be
manufactured willdepend on the fibres selected;the texture, or hand,ofthe fabric to
be m ade;and qualities such asw arm th,resiliency, softness,and durability required in
thefabric'send uses.
q'
@ Fabrk:
Fabricisa ffexible pdanarsubstance construded from solutions,fibres,yarns,orfabrics,
in any combination.Textile fabrics can be produced directqy from webs offibres by
bonding,fusing orinterlocking to make non-woven fabrics and felts,buttheirphysical
properties tend to restricttheir potentialend-usage.The mechanicalmanipulation of
yarn into fabricisthe mostversatile method ofmanufacturingtextile fabricsfora wide
rangeofend-uses.
FIoW chartoftextileprocessing:
lnput/Raw materials
Textile Fibres
Protessingsteps
Output
Yarn Manufacturing
Yarn
(SpinningMiII)
Yarn
FabricManufacturing
Grey Fabrics
(Weaving/KnittingIndustry)
Grey Fabrics
W etProcessing
Fini
shed Fabrics
(Dyeing,Printing&FinishingIndustry)
Finished Fabrics
GarmentManufacturing
(GarmentIndustry)
Garments
04
TEXTILE FIBRES
Any substance,naturalorm anufactured,w ith a high Iength to w idth ratio and with suitable
characteristics forbeing processed into fabric;the sm allest com ponent,hairIike in nature,
thatcan be separated from a fabric.
Properties ofTextile Fibres:
Prim ary properties oftextile fibres:
High Iength to w idth ratio
Tenacity
Flexibility
Spinningquality(Cohesiveness)
Uniform ity
Setondary properties oftextile fibres:
Physicalshape
Elastic recovery and elongation
Resiliency
Flam m ability and othertherm al reactions
Density
Lusture
Colour
M oisture regain
Prim ary propertiesoftextile fibres:
High Iength-to-w idth ratio:
;
Fibrous materialsmustpossessadequate staple (fibre Iength)and the Iength must be
'
considerably greater than the diam eter.The length is a vew im portant fibre property.
p to severalcentim eters Iong.
t Naturalfibres,exceptforsilk,are m ostly som e m illimeters u'
(-
ttSynthetic fibres are actually filaments (indefini
te Iength)or are chopped into (shorter)
(
:')j
:staple fibres,w hich can,in theirturn,be spun.
E.(?
(
C
J
L
.
j-k
.l
h.'
.
yj
.
)
l
L
ï
'.
:
j..
...
.
06
--wjujjje
Flexibility is the property of bending without breaking that is the third necessaw
characteristicoftextile fibre.In orderto form yarnsorfabricsthatcan be creased,thathave
the quality of drapability and the ability to m ove with the body and that perm it general
freedom of m ovem ent, the fibres m ust be bendable, pliable or flexible. The degreq of
flexibility determ ines the ease with which fibres, yarns and fabrics will bend and is
im portantin fabricdurability and generalperform ance.
SpinninzqualiW (fnh- WR*--Q):
This charaderistic refers to the ability ofthe fibre to stick together in yarn m anufaduring
processes. Cohesiveness indicates that fibres tend to hold together during yarn
m anufacturing asa resultofthe longitudinalcontourofthe fibre orthe cross-section shape
thatenablesthe fibreto fittogetherand entangle sufficiently to adhere to one another-
Un'
i* :
To m inim ize the irregularity in the finalyarn,it is im portant that the'fibres be som ew hat
sim ilarin length and width i.e.be uniform.The inherentvariabilit'
y in the naturaltibre can
be averaged outby blending naturalfibresfrom m any different batchesin orderto produce
yarn thatare uniform .
W onzaa -
'e oftoe lle & -'':
* 0 10 1shaN (sne*n* .* a 'ap- o- ):
The fibre shapes i.e.the sudace struclure is im portantforthe fibre behaviourin a yarn and
in a fabric.A rough scaly sudace of w oolfibres,for exam ple,ihfluences the feltingrand
shrinkage properties ofwoolfabrics.The scales enable fibresto grip one anotherw he'
na
yarn isspun.
The smooth,glassysudace ofa fibre such asthe nylon fibre,affed sthe lustre ofthe fibre-A
sm ooth sudace will not cling to dirt so readily. The cross-sectional shape of a fibre
influencesthe behaviourofthefabric.A circularornear-circularcross-section (wool)gives
an attradiveorcomfortablefeelascomparedto aflat,ribbon-likecross-section lèottonlCircularfibresoften have a poorercovering-powerthan the flatterortriangularones:A flat
ortriangularcross-section givesmore Iustre.Serrated orindentedcross-sectio/s(viscose)
give bettercolourabsorption as a result ofthe Iargerarea.M ore colour is also needed in
the case offine filam ents.The latteralso give a softerhandle orfeel.
:
Elao -c
and
- :
Afibre,whichissubjededtoaforce,willstretchtoacertaindegree-Thisstretchingcan alsobe
expressed asapercentage ofthe originalfibre lenglh,which isthe elongation-The elongatio:of
97
a fibre m ay be m easured atany specified load oras the elongation reached when the fibre
breaks.
Whenafibreissubjeded toasmallforce(orstretchedtoasmalldegree),itmayexhibit
almost pedect elasticity.Elasticity is the property ofa fibre to recover its originallength
afterstretching caused by a Ioad.
The term breaking elongation refers to the amount of stretch that occurs to the point
where the fibre breaks. Elastic Recovery designates the percentage of return from
elongation or stretch toward the originalIength or m easurement.Ifa fibre returns to its
originallength from a specified am ount of attenuation, it is said to have 100% elastic
recovew atX% elongation.
Resilienty:
lt is the ability of a fibre to return to shape following compression, bending or similar
deform ation.It is im portant in determ ining the crease recovery ofa fibre orfabric,and it
plays a significant role in the rapidity with which flattened carpet pile willregain itsshape
and restore itsappearance.
Resilience is the property of a fibre which enables i
t to recover from a certain Ioad or
stretched position and flexibility is that property to resist repeated bending and folding.A
supple fibre has a low resilience and iseasily com pressible.A stifffibre hasa high resilience
and cannotbe easily com pressed.
Flam m ability and othertherm alread ions:
Burning characteristics of the fibres are im portant in determ ining care and use,and they
serve as helpful guidelines in the fibre identification. Federal Iegislation on textile
inflam m abili
ty is an im portant consum er issue and a variety of types of textile end-use
productsmustmeetaspecified resistancetoflames.
AIIfibresare affected in one-w ay oranotheras they are heated.Som e,Iike wool,begin to
decom pose before melting;others,Iike polyethylene oracetate willsoften and m eltbefore
decom posi
tion sets in.The behaviouroffibres on heating and theirigni
tion propertiesare
of great practicalim portance.Indeed,fabrics should withstand the temperatures used in
ironing,laundering (with waterorsolvent)etc.Since syntheticfibresare thermoplastic
substances(i.e.theywillsoftenastheyare heated),thissofteningwillIargelydetermine
theirpracticalusefulness.
In the presence ofair,m ostfibreswillburn.ln thiscontext,theterm LOIisused.Itstandsfor
Lim iting Oxygen Index.The higherthe value ofLOI,the more difficulta substance willignite
since LOIisa m easure ofthe am ountofoxygen w hich hasto be presentin the airto leta
substance(continueto)burn.Onaverage,moststlbstanceshaveanLOIofabout20.Effortsare
m ade to reducetheflamm ability oftextile m aterialsin orderto Iim itaccidents.These effortsare
05
The staple Iength ofnaturalfibres isnotan easy property to define because the fibre Iength
can vary overa greatarea.A statisticalinterpretation ofthe data obtained on fibre length in
a Iaboratory,makesitpossibleto determine the staple Iength (an average length).ln order
forafibre to be spinnable,i.e.to be twistable,and therefore offersufficientcohesion to the
whole,a fibre m ust at least have a Iength of5 to 15 m illim etres.Fibres which are Ionger
than 150 m illim etres require specialized spinning m achines which m ake the spinning
processm ore expensive.
'
The mostcom mon naturalfibreshave aratio Ienglh/thicknesswhichequalsonethousand
orseveralthousands(cotton:1500,
'wool:3000;flax:1200).Coarserfibressuch asjute and
sisalhave ratios between 100 and 1000.W hen filam entsofm an-m ade fibres are chopped
into shorterfibres,an effortis m ade to bring the ratios close to those of naturalfibres,i.e.
between 1000 and 4000.
T
*
Second necessaw property for a productto qualify fortextile fibre is adequate strength,
termed as tenacity.Tenacity is defined as the tensile stress expressed as force per unit
Iineardensity ofthe unstrained specim en.
The strength of a fibre is generally dependent on the length of the polymer chain,the
degree of orientation of these polym er chains, the strength and types of the forces of
attractionbetween thepolymerchains(interpolymerforces).TheIongerapolymerchain is,
the higher the degrees of orientation and crystallization and, hence, the stronger the
interpolym er forces.Crystalline system s feelstiffand present less resistance to repeated
bending or folding. Stronger fibres will Iead to stronger yarns under the appropriate
conditionsoftw ist.
The tensile strength orbreaking load iscom monly described asthe force required to reach
break.
lnthecaseofafibre,the strengthisdescribed astenacity(specificstressatbreak)
breuking Ioad
Tenacity= m ass perunit/enqttt
Tenacity isexpressed in term sof (centilnewtons pertex(cN/tex orN/tex).
lt is im portant to note that the fibre strength does not alw ays indicate com parable yarn or
fabric strength.Fibres w ith high strength are usefulin seerand Iightw eightfabrics.Fabrics
used in w ork cloths and various industrialapplications are better from high tenacity fibres.
Fibre tenacity does not alw ays reflectthe actualstrength of textile yarn.Itis possible for
yarns to be m ade so that fibre slippage occurs;this does not m ake optim um use of the
actualfibre tenacity.
0'
8
made both in the field ofsynthesisoffibres(chemicalmodification)and,afterwards,by
using substanceswhich sfow dow n orresistburning.
Chem ically speaking,vegetable fibres have aim ost identicalcom posi
tion, and consist of
cellulose,which is a com bination ofcarbon,hydrogen and oxygen.They aIlburn aspaperor
wood,ignite readily,Ieave Iittle or no ashes and release a distinctive fire smellof burnt
Paper.
Fibres ofanim alorigin also have a sim ilarchem icalcom position;they aIIcontain nitrogen
and willtherefore noteasily burn through.They shriveland form charred ashes.They Ieave
afire smellofburntfeathers.
Exceptionsareweighted naturalsilk (Ieavesasheswhich keep the form ofthe yarn)and
acetate w here introducing acetate groups in the pol
ym er chains m akes the fibre melt
before i
tcan ignite.
M an-m ade fibresbased on protein burn asfibresofanim alorigin.Fully syntheticfibresm elt
wi
thoutignition.
Density:
Fibreswith differentdensities butofequaldiam eterwillhave differentcovering pow erthat
is the ability to cover a surface.Fabrics made w ith fibres of different densities willhave
difference in fabric appearance,flexibility,airperm eabilityand cover.
The density,also called volum icm assorm assdensity,isthe mass perunitvolum e and hasp
asitssym bol.It is usually expressed in grams percubiccentim eter.Anotherterm is specific
gravity,w hich isthe ratio ofthe m ass ofafibre m aterialand the m ass ofan equalvolum e of
water(density lg/cm3).The specific gravity ofa substance vis-à-vis waterequals the
numericalvalueofthe(absolute)densityofthissubstanceifitisexpresseding/cm3.Every
fibre ischaracterized by its density,w hich can be m easured in variousways.
M easurem entofdensity can be carried outwith a gradientcolum n,where the Iiquid in the
tube hasa density which varies in height.Ifa fibre is dropped in the tube,itw illsinkto the
pointatwhich the fibre density equalsthe Iiquid density,and remain suspended there.
This experim ent is based on the fact that a fibre which is subm erged in a Iiquid with the
sam e density willsink nor drift but float, and that the density of a Iiquid can easily be
measured.Treatm ents forfinishing fibres,can influence the results.Foreign substances on
orin the fibresm ustbe rem oved before doing the experim ent.
09
The Iistbelow givesan overview ofthe mostim portantfibresand theirdensities.
Textile Fibres
Fibredensitiesing/cm3
Commercialname
Cotton
Cotton
Flax
Jute
W ool
Silk
Silk
Silk
Polyester
Polyester
Viscose
Cupram m onium
Polyurethane
Polypropylene
Polyethylene
Polyethylene
1.55
1.54
1.50
1.50
1.30
1.33
1.60
1.32
1.22
1.38
1.53
1.53
1.15
0.90
0.92
0.95
Raw
M ercerized
Nyloq 6
Nylon 66
1.13
1.14
Lycra
M eraklon
Courlene
Courlene X3
Perlon
Tri-nylon
Acryl
1.14- 1.17
Orlon(staple/filament)
Polyvinylalcohol
1.30
Kuralon, vinal
No brand
Natural
W eighted
Tussah
Kodel,vestan
Teryleen, Dacron
Lusture:
ltrefers to the gloss,sheen orshine that a fibre has.It isthe resultofthe amountofIight
reflected by afibre,and itdeterm inesthe fibre'snaturalbrightnessordullness.
Colour:
Naturalcolouroffibresvary from pure white to deep gray.tan orblack.M an-made fibres
are usually white oroff-white asthey are produced.
M oisture regain oreffed ofm oisture:
AIlfibres tend to absorb m oisture when in contact w ith the atmosphere.The am ount
absorbed dependson the relative hum idity ofthe air.
For absorption of m oisture of a fibre, the term regain is used.This is the amount of
m oisture present in a textile m aterialexpressed asthe percentage ofthe oven-dry weight
(dry weight)ofthe textile.This dry mass isthe constantweightoftextile obtained after
drying at a tem perature of105OC to 1100c. If B isthe dry weight and A is the conditionëd
weight (the weight after being in a normalized atmosphere of 20()C and 65% rejative
humidity),theregainexpressed in percentagewillbe:
).
t
E'1
I
.1
10
MoistureRegain
ïi
i
p
:h
A- B
-- x100
B
j'
!
;
)
t
Anotherrelevantterm is moisture contentand,expressed in percentage,is:
M oisture content
A-B
x l00
A
i
.
; ...
:
'
ë:.
The m oisture contentisthe m assofm oisture in a fibre and isexpressed as a percentage of
the totalweight.It is a measure ofthe am ount ofwaterheld under any particularset of
circumstances.The moisture contentisalw ays Iowerthan the regain.
Fibres can presentgreatvariations in the amountofm oisture they w illabsorb. W oolhas a
regain of16% cotton of8.5%,acetateonly of6%.Fibres,which can absorb sufficientmoisture,
are most suitable for processing into clothing because
' they will absorbperspiration from the
body and willhold considerable amountsofm oisture w ithoutfeeling clam my. The abilityofa
fibreto absorb moisture willalso affectthe processing and finishing offibres. Fibreswhich easil
y
absorb moisture,willtherefore Iet dyestuffs penetrate moreeasily during the dyeing process.
Synthetic fibres,which often absorb little moisture,are easily washed and dried by comparison
wi
th fibres,which absorb a lotofm oisture.On theotherhand, thisentailsthe phenom enonof
electrostaticcharging.
The strength ofafibre isaffected significantly by the w ateritabsorbs. Fibres,w hich easily
absorbmoisture,willusuallybeIessstrongwhenwet(exceptforflaxancotton)andwillpresent
increased elongation atbreak.One should also realize thatabsorption ofm oisture can also
m ake the fibre sw ellto a considerable degree,w hich is im portantforfixating dyestuffs
.
NM URAL FIBER:
tA.*.ew
'
.
&r..* .yY<
jl*
*P
.
.
'. .
..,
.,
.. j
.,+,
w
k f 44:t*R. e.'
.
'
* a .w ...
v
.
PX*
*.> * e* . *
t.lk;
..<.% .. A- *
z
. K..
ij
.. .j
.
. 4k/. . wà!vv1
t.
J
&'
/ 4.*
r*
..
.
. *
..
(e
..
.
.1 .. w
. ;. .
n
. .7qj
.
..
W * G FI*ER
o 4)
,.t...
>.:
.L' .
y:
.
tjroo w..p)
-'. .k.
.:..
......
;.m .
.
>
- y : . .. :
..j pk...
.
t
..,
fk
,# ..#.
'.
p'z
. eJ
.
'/ej. 'f '?:' < I
r t4w, )m
/f .
x. s.u
..
,4
! (e - #Ikw@- )
L
ï
.
:
sj
1:
.
gy
,
. '
.
e
.
-.
#%
k. ,4#
.
. a,
,.
.
.
>
uNw .. . pusvj
11
Elassification ofTextile Fibres:
Textile Fibres
Man-madeFibres
NaturalFibres
Animalfibre
Vegetablefibre
(Protein)
(cellulose)
M ineral
Syntheticfibre Regenerated
Other
fibre
(SYntheti
cpol
ymer)
fibre
(carb
on,gl
a
ss,metal
,
cerami
c,etc.)
(Asbestos)
tnaturalpol
ymer)
Silk W ool
Hair
(sheep) (alpaca,camel
,cow,goat,
horse,rabbitetc.)
Alginate Rubber Regen Regen Cellulose
(elastodi erated er3ted ester
ene) protein cellulo
(azlon) -se
(ra on)
Animal(casein) Vegetable
1
1
Acetate Triacetate
Seedfibre
Bastfibre
Leaffibre
(cotton#coir) t
fl
ax-hemepjute,rami
e, (auaectac,.s
isal
tc.)
)
i
i
i
i
Pol
ymethyl Polyolefin Pol
yvinyl
-eneur
ea
derivatives
Viscose Cupro Modal Lyocell
t
t
t
Pol
yure Polyamide Pol
yimide Arami
d
-thane ornylon
t
Polyester Synthetic
polyisoprene
N
Non-segm ented
Polyethylene
Pol
ypropylene
i
)
Acrylic
M odacrylic
pplyurethane
Chlorofibre
segmented polyurethane
(elastane,spandex,Lycra)
)
)
)
Flourofibre
Trivinyl
Polystyrene
j
C
i
l
12
Fibre Identification:
escience. Atonetime,
The identificationoftextilefibresisavew importantpartofthestudyoftextil
simpIefibreidentificationwasa relati
vel
y easytask;mostconsumerscouldtellbyappearanceandhand
whetherafabricwascotton,wool,silk,orIinen.Oncethefirstmanmadefibreswere introduced,the
processbecame abitmore difficult.Consumersusuallycould identifythe fibrecompositionoffabrics
madeof100 percentrayonoracetate,butblendsofsomefibreswere difficult to identify.As more
fibres w ere introduced, the task becam e progressively m ore difficult.Today,sophisticated
techniquesare usually required foraccurate fibre identification.
The purpose ofthe Textile Fibre ProductsIdentification Actwasto provide inform ation on fibre
contentoftextilesatthe pointofsale.Consumerswere atonce relieved ofthe responsibilityto
identify fibre content of items they purchased; howeverzprofessionals working with textile
productsstillm ust be able to identify fibres accurately.Such individuals include retailerswho
suspectsome textile productsthey boughtforresale have been Iabeled inaccurately;customs
osicialswho m ustidentify imported fibres;dry cleanersw ho m ustclean an item from which aII
the labels have been rem oved; extension hom e econom ists w ho are asked to help solve a
consum er's problem w ith a textile product; and forensic scientists w ho m ust use a textile
sam pleto help solvea crim e.
Formostindividuals,the only information needed isa qualitative analysisoffibre content:what
fibre orfibresare presentin this product? Forothers,a quantitative analysis ofthe product is
also im portant: in w hat percentages are the fibres present? W ith the num bers of fibres
availabletoday and the varietyofblendsbeing produced,neitheranalysisiseasy.
M ethods for qualitative identification of fibres include such procedures as burning tests,
m icroscopy,densi
ty determ ination,m oisture regain analysis,dye staining,chem icalsolubility,
melting point determination,infrared spectroscopy,and chrom atography.Sim pli
fied versions
ofthe firstsix proceduresare relatively easy to pedorm in m ostIaboratories.They require the
use of a drying oven, an analytical balance sensitive to 0.005 gram, a com pound light
microscope capableof200 x magnification,laboratory glassware,and a suppl
y ofchemicals.
A. Burning Test:
The burning testis a good prelim inary testforcategorizing fibres.Observation ofburning
provides information on behaviorin a flame,sm oke generation,odorduring burning,and
ash or residue.lt never should be used as the only method of identifying a fibre,but it
provides valuable information that may be used with other evidence to m ake a positive
identificationofan unknown fibre.
Blendsoffibres are difficultto testusing this procedure.Tbe reaction ofthe predom inant
fibre may m ask the presence ofa second fibre,which could have entirel
y different burning
characteristics. Finishes, especially flam eretardant finishes, can also give m isleading
inform ation. Althoughthe testiseasyto perform,itdoesinvolve the use ofanopenflame,making it
necessaryto observe certain safety precauti
ons.Use a sm allflam e source in an area w here
there is no dangerofigniting otherm aterials.A candle in a stable base ora smallalcohol
lamp is preferable to a hand-held m atch.A nonflam mable pad should be used underthe
burning m aterialto provide protection from molten drip and sm oldering ash.Do nottouch
ash ortweezerswhile they are stillhot.
- Xem thêm -