Mô tả:
NEEDLE
© Student Handouts,
By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune
Contents
1. The basic functions of a needle
2. Needle Parts: Physical characteristics
3. Needle Identification
4. Round Point Needles
5. Needle Size / Thickness
6. Comparison of Equivalent Needle Sizes
7. Common Problems and Solutions
8. Needle Checklist
9. Checking a Needle that is already in a Machine
SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE
Functions of the needle
• To produce hole in the material
• To carry the needle thread through the
material and there form a loop
• To pass the needle thread through the loop
SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PARTS
PARTS OF THE NEEDLE
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BUTT
SHANK
SHOULDER
LONG GROOVE
SHORT GROOVE
EYE
NEEDLE POINT
SCARF
BLADE
SEWING NEEDLE PARTS
BUTT
• The end of the needle
• The butt determine the length of the needle when it is
fully inserted into the needle bar of the sewing machine.
SHANK
• upper part of the needle
• may be cylindrical or have a flat side.
• larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for reason
of strength
SHOULDER
• Intermediate between shank and the blade
• It is also called shaft
SEWING NEEDLE PARTS
BLADE
• Below the shoulder of the blade to the eye of the needle
• Longest part of the needle.
• Accommodates the groove, the eye and the scarf.
• The blade reduces the fabric resistance as the needle point
and its eye passes through the fabric
• Greatest amount of the friction .
SEWING NEEDLE PARTS
LONG GROVE
• Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to "cradle"
thread for smooth stitches.
• Provides a protective channel in which the thread is drawn
through.
• A Correctly shaped long groove of a depth matched to the
thread diameter, offers considerable protection to the thread.
SHORT GROOVE
• It extends a little above and below the eye
• Its function is to assist in the formation of the loop in the
needle thread.
SEWING NEEDLE PARTS
SCARF
• Concave section above the eye of the needle
• Indentation at back of needle.
• A long scarf helps eliminate skipped stitches by allowing bobbin hook to
loop thread more easily.
SEWING NEEDLE PARTS
EYE
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Hole in end of needle through which thread passes.
The hole through which the thread pass
Eye is located below the scarf
Needle size and type determine size and shape of eye.
Point: minimizes the damage of the fabric
SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD
IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO SMALL FOR THE THREAD
• Thread will not pass freely through the eye
• Thread will not fit properly into the long groove.
• Thread will suffer from excessive abrasion.
• Can lead to costly thread breakages in production.
IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO LARGE FOR THE THREAD
• There will be poor control of the loop formation which may cause
slip stitches.
• It will create holes in the fabric which are too big for the stitches
and give an unattractive seam appearance.
• Tends to give rise to damaged fabric along the stitch line, and in
closely woven fabrics, pucker along the seam line due to fabric
distortion.
NEEDLE POINTS
Most machine needles will
look similar but they will
differ in their tips:
Set/Spear point - These are
used for most woven fabrics.
Ball point - These have a
rounded tip and are used for
knitted fabrics. The rounded
end allows the needle to
separate the yarns without
cutting them, which reduces
the chance of the fabric
laddering.
Wedge point - These are
designed to cut a hole as they
penetrate the fabric. They are
used for machining leather
and plastic materials.
SPEAR NEEDLE POINT
SLIM SET POINT
SET POINT
HEAVY SET POINT
BALL NEEDLE POINT
LIGHT BALL POINT
MEDIUM BALL POINT
HEAVY BALL POINT
CLOTH POINT NEEDLE
BALL POINT
NEEDLE
NEEDLE POINT
EFFECT OF DIFFERENT NEEDLE POINTS
NEEDLE POINT
Slim Set Point also referred to as acute
round point (SPI)
* This point is used for dense woven fabrics as it
causes less damage, helps set a straighter stitch
and minimizes seam pucker.
* Commonly used for microfibre and densely
woven fabrics, coated materials, topstitching of
collars and cuffs in shirts.
NEEDLE POINT
Set Cloth Point also referred to as normal round
point (R)
This point is used for normal fabrics with standard
seams as it pushes the yarn to the side.
NEEDLE POINT
Light Ball Point (SES)
This point is used for sewing lightweight knitted
fabric. It is sometimes used for fine denim and light,
densely woven material to avoid damaging the
material.
NEEDLE POINT
Medium Ball Point (SUK)
This point is used for sewing medium weight knitted
fabric. It is also used for medium to coarse denims,
particularly sand-washed and stonewashed grades
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